I recently spent several colorful, albeit challenging days in Varanasi and stayed at the Shivakashi Guest House. The rooms were nice and the rooftop offered wonderful views of the old city at sunset as the call to prayer echoed and hundreds of kites took flight from every rooftop. The manager was a true gentleman who made sure I was well hydrated on the challenging days and gave me enough Nepalese rupees to get a tea when I reached the boarder. Rickshaw driver, Senior Chocolate, with his ebullient love of Varanasi, also reflected well on the city, making sure I caught my bus while going out of his way to buy me the best tea in Varanasi. I will stay here again when I return.